Loco Gringo
Hello all!
I’ve had some time lately to write about what I’ve been up to and wanted to give you all an update. After finally getting new brakes and leaving Salta, Argentina it felt so good to be back on the bike. Got to wind through the wine country of Argentina and the deserts -it was so gorgeous! I ran into other bikepackers even! They all were headed north and often were shocked that I was headed south during winter haha. As I rode further, I got to head back into the mountains to see some beautiful high deserts. I even saw my first Andean condor, which is surprising as I have been in the Andes since Christmas. The feeling of riding while a condor flew next to me was incredible.
After the desert days I headed to Mendoza, a beautiful city that sits in the shadow of the tallest mountain in the Andes. At this point I had 20 days to make it to the border with Chile so I could renew my Argentina visa for another 90 days. My bike and I have bonded so much in the last year that I can tell when anything is off. After riding less than a mile I could immediately tell something was wrong. Another spoke - my bike was limping again. I was reminded of my favorite book, “The Old Man and the Sea.” In the story the old man wonders to himself if he is bringing the fish he caught into port or if the fish is bringing him in. When my bike and I started off into the Mexican desert I felt like it was always asking for more miles (even after a 136-mile day) and it was “carrying me in.” Now, after numerous mechanical issues along the way such as new brakes, new spokes/wheel, lots of new tires and chains, and worn bags/latches; I feel I have been “carrying it in.” The reality is we are carrying each other to Ushuaia. Equal partners, along with all the names that go with us.
Luckily, this time in Mendoza there was a bike shop half a mile away. It was a brother and sister run bike shop and they were so helpful and happy to get my bike back in working order. I went to have some coffee and wait to get back on the road. After returning to the bike shop the mechanic delivered the bad news that my rear derailleur hanger was cracked and likely to fall apart. In fact, while we were looking at it, it did! So, the sister headed out, going to every bike shop to see if they had a hanger that would fit my bike. And after a long discussion with every bike shop in town and Kona bikes, it seemed that the best option was to have it milled. I was able to find a machinist who got to work right away making another hanger for me. I decided that this might be a good time to cross the mountain pass into Chile by bus while my bike was healing up. I hopped on the first bus to Uspallata, leaving all my bags except one at the bike shop. It was so weird not having my bike with me. My bike is not only my best friend on this trip but also my freedom to travel where and how I like. When I got to Uspallata everyone was saying that the border might open but the road had been damaged by the recent storm. Now I was without my bike and without a way to cross the Andes. I talked to some truck drivers (only cargo was being allowed across the border) about hitch hiking my way across the border, but they were all concerned that I would get stuck in Chile. So, the next day I took a bus back to Mendoza to wait for my bike repairs and attempt to make the crossing into Chile at another crossing. I still had 25 days right!? My bike got its custom-made hanger and we set off to Bardas Blancas, the next road south of me that passes through the Andes. I got there surprisingly fast, feeling good and at the lower altitudes. It turns out that border was closed for winter as well, but it was okay! I still had 20 days.
The following days were spent on dirt roads through volcanos and volcanic fields, wild camping and loving the peace of the dirt roads. I was trying to get to Barrancas, a town on the north border of the Neuquén province. The wind seemed determined to stop me that day! When I was lucky enough to have the wind at my back, I could do 11mph UPHILL without pedaling! But the wind is rarely at your back when bikepacking, so most of the day was spent pedaling downhill to only travel 8mph. It was beautiful though. Flamingos lined the road to Neuquén. That day as I crossed into the province, I passed a sign that read, “Barrancas, Patagonia”. I didn’t know where Patagonia started but apparently, I had made it. I spoke with some friends I made in Argentina and they all said, “You’ve made it to Patagonia!!” It was so wild to think I had now made it to the last stage of this year long trip. Patagonia is the place that a lot of these trans-America bikepacking journeys lead to. And it is home to Ushuaia, my destination.
Upon my arrival, Patagonia gave me a very Patagonian welcome. Wind, wind, and stronger wind. The days of riding were slow and full of near-constant wind and rain. Despite the weather, I made it to Las Lajas where there is another border crossing into Chile! And I still had 15 days to make it! Once again though, Winter said, “you can’t go this way,” and the road was closed due to snow. Back to the tried-and-true plan of getting to the crossing near Bariloche! The next week was spent camping in the snow, broken up with occasional stays at hostels when I needed to dry my tent, my clothes, and my bones. The beautiful Lake District of Argentina was one of the most peaceful places I have ridden. Yes, most people were in the beautiful ski towns like San Martín, all dressed up to go skiing or snowboarding. It was fun riding through the rain and snow, camping near lakes by myself since it is winter. I even got to see some of my first southern crested caracaras, a bird that my mom read a book about while we traveled through Peru and Bolivia. She gave me the book and I picked up a fascination with the bird as well. Finally seeing them was a dream.
After 1,4000 miles I had finally made it to an open border crossing with 8 days left! Well, I was NEAR the border at the Argentine checkpoint anyway. There I was told by the officers that it was too dangerous to cross by bicycle and again, that I would need to hitchhike across. After spending a couple hours asking anyone with room to let me in, the border patrol said, “if you think you can make it, we believe in you.” And so, I set off over the snowy pass and with the help of a couple in a VW van I made it over the mountain pass before the border closed. After being questioned about why I spent so much time in Argentina followed by me asking, “is it okay if I go back into Argentina tomorrow?” The border patrol in Chile told me maybe it was possible, but that Argentina may have an issue with it. I was getting nervous that I might not be allowed back into Argentina. My dad encouraged me to try to make the 4,000ft ascent and 25-mile ride back to Argentina the next day despite my anxiety and fears. I camped in Chile and the next morning woke up and set off to cross the snowy pass once more. It turned out my dad was right. They didn’t care that I had just turned around and come right back into the country. I was now back in Argentina enjoying the spectacular views of mountains that rise thousands of feet out of lakes and the plethora of birds!
I enjoyed the cute ski town of Bariloche but my back began to hurt. Because of my recurring back pain, I have been taking it easy as I continue riding farther south. I am still camping when I am able to find a spot. Outside of Bolson last week, I was able to camp down by a beautiful river on a farmer’s property. He told me it was too cold to camp, and he did not have a bathroom for me to use due to the cold. I ensured him that I would be okay as long as I had a spot for the night. Before leaving I looked at the river and asked him, “Can I bathe in the river?” He said, “you are kidding, right!?” I told him I wasn’t kidding. He laughed and said, “of course.” I stripped down and iced my back in the river while the farmer yelled while laughing, “loco gringo!” - a term I have become very well accustomed to hearing. It is something I’ve heard often on this trip. At first, I would think, “I am not crazy”, but now it feels endearing and encouraging. It is always said joviality and I have come to embrace it.
At the time of this writing, I am near El Bolson at Lago Puelo, getting ready to record a podcast with TWLOHA and resting my back for a couple of days. Then I will continue my journey south. I am headed for the famed Carretera Austral, a road through Patagonia that draws cyclists from around the world. Then, on to the glaciers and national parks of the Santa Cruz and Tierra del Fuego provinces. After that, Fin del Mundo!! (We will see if I can bargain my way to Antarctica)
Recently, I have been doing a lot of reflecting on my trip, as I am only 1,200 miles away from Ushuaia. I have told my family that I feel happy. It was strange to start saying that out loud. After Paige’s suicide I didn’t want to let myself be happy or feel happy. But I have learned so much about my grief and how to live with it. I have an appreciation for life that I didn’t have before Paige died. I am not saying I prefer my life without my older sister, but I wouldn’t have the same appreciation for this life. I hate that I had to learn it that way and I would trade it in a heartbeat to have my sister back. Unfortunately, we don’t live in that world. I am understanding the beauty that comes from opening myself up to growth. I have done some hard things this year, but I am happy. I still have financial stress and worry about where I’ll camp every night, but I am allowing myself to be okay that I feel happiness. It is a happiness that is very much mixed with sadness, anger, and some depression. But I am okay with the mix now.
This adventure has not been a vacation nor an easy thing either, but I have come to know myself so much better. I am so thankful for this experience and beyond grateful for you all for making it possible. I am trying to stay present and not think about my journey through South America ending. If I had the resources, I would turn around at the end and ride back to Peru or even the US.
Over the course of this trip I have listened to many books and recently read a line from one of Terry Pratchett’s books. He wrote, “You haven't really been anywhere until you’ve got back home.” I like that. I am looking forward to getting back home - to friends and family again. And then riding my bike to y’all and saying thank you in person! I am still growing WSCWS and hope to continue to share people’s stories of grief and have projects in the works. Our goal is to meet people where they are at and hear their stories about grief and how they have learned to continue with it. I love being able to hear and share people’s journeys with grief. Learning how we all grieve differently makes grieving easier. There is no right or wrong way to grieve. We want to support as many people as we can in their grief as we learn how to navigate living with it. Also, I am by no means done traveling the world by bike either. Thank you all so much!
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Cheers,
Austin Andrew
Email: Austin@weshallcontinue.org